I just got home from being in Sicily for a week for our PLP (Preparatory Language Program) break. We had been in this program for two months and so now it is over and we have begun our fall semester today.
Sicily, Sicily, Sicily…where do I begin? I guess I will take it day by day and do my best to recall all the craziness that went down,
Last Friday (the day after my 22nd birthday) after the last final exams, my friends: Liz, Estefani, Jackie, Ginny and I took a three hr train to Rome to stay the night there, because our flight to Palermo (the capital of Sicily) left out of Rome the next morning. We booked our flight from Rome to Palermo because it was the most economical, and to go anywhere you pretty much have to leave out of one of the larger cities, like Rome or Milan. So we stayed in Rome Friday night and took it pretty easy, since our flight left at seven am the next morning and we had to be up by four. Yes, four am. The next morning we woke up and successfully made it to the airport and into Palermo. I fell asleep and missed the spectacular arrival (there is a view of a beautiful mountain when landing in Palermo) but luckily my friend took pictures:) We found a hostel and stayed in Palermo for one night, unexpectedly though because we were intially supposed to stay with someone in a near by town and couch surf for two nights. When we arrived we called him but he didn’t call us until much later, after we already decided to get some rooms at a hostel and spend the day there instead.
Palermo is not the most beautiful Sicilian city, but it does have it’s perks. We found an amazing cafe with awesome food, coffee, and sweets for very cheap, right on the main drag!
Our hostel was kind of eccentric, with palms trees and random art inside by the front desk. I read that is was suppsedly once a palace of some of the ancestors of the current owner. It was decorated with strange art, something of which we noticed were that there were unique metal chandeliers scattered around the place.
That night we met some other travelers and went out to dinner at this loud, very Sicilian restaurant, where I tried anchovies for the first time. I didn’t actually mean to order a pizza with anchovies on it, but it was a somewhat pleasant surprise and was something new and exciting I didn’t expect to do! Anchovies are a big thing in Sicily, same with Arancini (fried spherical things that are filled with rice, meat and cheese. They look like oranges, hence the name Arancini, the word for oranges in Italian.) Aside from having beautiful beaches, crazy drivers, and people that exhibit darker features then those in Northern Italy, Sicily is also known for it’s strange marionettes, ceramic arts, Cathedrals, mosaics, ancient ruins, and Europe’s tallest active Volcano- Mt. Etna.
Our hostel was located on a nightlife street where many loud clubs and bars are located. Strangely enough, we hardly saw any tourists (although the bars looked like they definitely catered to tourists) and the street was filled with young Sicilians.

Some words about Sicilian youth and fashion:…What. the. fuck?
As we all know, in some cultures there exists latent (or sometimes not so latent) prejudices, such as things like homophobia or prejudices against people from other backgrounds. And although they are somewhat homophobic in Sicily, they dress very feminine (or at least what we would DEFINITELY consider feminine for men in American culture) and are very affectionate towards one another for being so homophobic . Every day during the evening many Italians and Sicilians take a walk around town and talk about whatever they please, this is called the “Passegiata.” While walking, talking, and observing one another, people traditionally link arms, men included. To greet one another, people kiss each other on their cheeks, as often as we would shake hands in the states. Guys hold each other on their vespas and mopeds. But when talking about gay men or anything to do with homosexuals, people generally gawk with displeasure and usually make stereotypical gestures, or avoid the subject altogether. I have yet to completely understand this “cultural oxymoron,” and will continue on the subject later..
After we were done with Palermo, and weren’t actually able to go and stay with Dario (the guy who was going to host us from Couchsurfing) we were lucky to get in touch with one of my friend’s landlords who is from a little town called Caltagirone in the south east part of Sicily. They had told him that we would be traveling there, and called us just in the nick of time, since we didn’t really know where we were going to go. We had planned to play it by ear, but we had in mind some of the cities we wanted to visit. The south eastern side of Sicily is, in some people’s opinions, the more beautiful part of Sicily, so we were set on going down there. Salvo, Ginny and Jackie’s landlord, insisted we come stay with him so we can use his house as a base, and thus travel from there. He was incredibly hospitable and generous, so much so that he lent us his land rover so that we could drive to the towns we wanted and get the most out of our trip. He saved us so much money, and was so incredibly kind. We only wanted to stay a couple of nights, but he insisted we stay as long as possible so that we could save money on lodging. So we headed down to Caltagirone, which is on the other side of Sicily. It only took us about two and a half hrs by bus, for eleven euro! We were looking at trains initially, because trains are the most common and economical way to travel throughout Europe for the most part, but the train took eight hrs and cost more then the bus! How is that possible?!
Two hours later we arrived in a nearby town to Caltagirone called Piazza Armerina. He picked us up and drove us back to the house we would be staying at, which was in fact a different house down the street from his own, after taking us around his town and showing us around a bit. Caltagirone is called “La citta delle ceramiche”- the city of ceramics. It is a very beautiful, very small town, and literally, everything is decorated with ceramics. The churches have ceramics designs, there are ceramic shops everywhere. The street signs are ceramic, and there are even painted ceramic tiles on parts of the road and sidewalk. It was a really nice little town to call home for our trip, and Salvo has lived there his whole life, and so he knew a lot of nice people and had a good time telling us about his home.
From Caltagirone we drove to a number of towns, one each day until we left on Saturday morning. First we went to Syracusa and Ortigia, one of the larger towns on the south eastern coast of Sicily. Syracusa is famous for it’s ancient Greek ruins and part of town called Ortigia, a small island like annex next to Syracusa, similar to Newport Beach and Balboa Island. Not that the towns are anything like Orange County (in any way!!) but the island is more cutesy then the main city and consists of more expensive housing and tourist shopping. Ortigia has one of the most interesting churches I have visited thus far, although there are so many it is difficult to recall. That church has a specific vibe that I felt much deeper then some of the other churches I had previously visited. The piazza it is located within was spectacularly well kept and white. The marble that was used to construct it was astonishingly white, and because it was later in the day it was fairly empty and quite beautiful. We witnessed a gorgeous sunset and then drove home after a long day. Before going to Ortigia we visited an archaeological site in Syracusa where an ancient Greek theatre is located, as well as a giant cave called “The ear of Dionysus.”

Each day we experienced immense frustation while driving, so I will not discuss this in depth. My friend Jackie was the only one of us who was experienced with driving stick shift, and with the nature of Sicilian driving, one could imagine how crazy it was and how scared we all were for our lives. Jackie did a good job, but we all collectively “drove,” so to speak, otherwise, it was impossible to maneuver those roads! There pretty much aren’t any rules for the road, and people continusouly make alternate lanes and pull crazy moves that you would NEVER see in the US!
Since we were saving so much money we went out to a nice dinner almost every night, and did as much as we could for Salvo, even though he would hardly let us. Sicilians are incredibly nice and friendly, at least all those that we met, but we were told it was apart of the culture and that most people are anyways.
The next day we went to Taormina and Catania. These two cities are close by one another and are considered two of the most imporant places to visit while in Sicily. Catania is the second largest city in Sicily, and Taormina is a small town atop a large mountain that looks out to the sea, and has some of the most beautiful beaches down below along the shore. Many celebrities have stayed in Taormina, including Roald Dahl and Elizabeth Taylor. It is a popular vacation spot because it absolutely gorgeous, and has some very beautiful beaches and ritzy resorts. There is a gorgeous ancient Greek theater there that looks out to the ocean, and a castle at the top of the mountain that has spectacular views around it’s perimeter. We went through the local public gardens, which is definitely one of the most beautiful public gardens I have ever seen. It has a breathtaking view of the coast line down below, as well as old little buildings that give it so much character and charm.
After spending the day in Taormina, eating gelato, and venturing back down the mountain, we headed to Catania and arrived rather late. We went to a castle there, which is a free museum today, and tried to visit the Cathedral, but arrived too late. We had dinner and met up with some friends that we met at our hostel in Palermo, and then headed back to Caltagirone for the night. We missed out on a famous fish market, but hopefully next time I will get to see it, cause Sicily is definitely somewhere I have to go back to!
The next day (last Wednesday) we went to a small town near by called Piazza Armerina. There is a famous villa there that has some cool mosaics, and is famous for it’s well kept mosaic of some ancient women in bikinis in some sort of competition. Unfortunately a lot of the Villa was closed off due to restoration purposes (surprisingly enough, like many tourist sites throughout Europe) and so we said our goodbyes to Liz and went back to Caltagirone for the day. Liz is my roommate who was with us for most of the trip, but left early to head to Milan to visit and friend and see a concert for one of her favorite bands.
On Thursday we went to Mount Etna, and this time Salvo came with us. Since he is a native, he knew where to go so that we wouldn’t have to pay, and still get to see some amaaaaaazing sights. We drove up almost to the top of the mountain/volcano, and hiked up even further to see some craters and some of the most amazing views I have ever seen. Mt. Etna is an active volcano, it’s most recent eruption being just last year. A lot of the mountain is covered mostly in gorgeous trees or lava rock. When it erupted in 2002 it destroyed a restaurant and some buildings that were on it’s northern side. So we hiked up part of this mountain, somewhat fearing for our lives and saying our goodbyes just in case; we hikeu up so high we were above the clouds and it looked like we were seriously on mars. As far as we could see there were just hills and hills of lava rock and clouds, and the moon was visible since it was about 2 or 3 in the afternoon. The peak was covered with snow and the trees were beautiful multicolored for autumn. It was so beautiful, and I cannot believe I actually hiked up an active volcano. It was so quiet and empty up there, I feel like I will never experience anything else like that in my life, and that may be the closest I ever get to feeling like being on another planet…until I actually go to Mars, of course;) On the way up the mountain we stopped amidst some gorgeous yellow trees and collected chestnuts to roast later, since we got so pro at that while visiting Estefani’s family in Domodossola :-p

The next day we relaxed in Caltagirone, cleaned, and made cards for Salvo. We restocked some food, toilet paper and beer, and watched some funny Italian tv. The last night we went out to a nice restaurant that we previously visited and really liked, and had a great time talking in Italian and reminsicing of our time in Sicily.
Saturday morning Salvo drove us to the bus station in Piazza Armerina and we said our goodbyes. We left him with a bottle of Jack Daniels and some homemade cards and went on our way back to Palermo.
When we arrived back in Palermo we went back to our same hostel and went out to Aperitivo and spent Halloween in Sicily. (Aperitivo is like Tapas, it is where you pay for a drink and get free food or appetizers.) Since the street our hostel was on is pretty crazy at night, we got to see how Sicilians do Halloween, while sipping Sangria at a latin bar. It was pretty crazy and fun to observe their interpretation of our American Holdiay. I honestly didn’t expect anything to be going on, and to our surprise they did celebrate in a small way with simple costumes and decorations.
While in Palermo we took a bus over to a city called Monreale and visited this famous church. The church is famous for having gold mosaics inlaid throughout all of its walls and ceiling. It was magnificent; one of the only churches I had seen at the time with such an abundance of golden, shimmering artwork.

Yesterday (Sunday) morning we took a train to the airport in Palermo, flew out of Palermo (saw a Pizza vending machine! Yes, it cooks a pizza and vends it to you for five euro! We weren’t the only ones amused by this novelty, fyi) and landed back in Rome, waiting around for about an hr until our train left for Florence. After having woken up at seven am, to arrive at our destination by eight o’clock at night, I was severly exhausted and incredibly happy to be back at home in my bed.
All in all, it was an amazing trip, and it worked out really well. I feel like I was able to get to know, and become closer to, some new friends, and we got incredibly lucky with the housing situation, among many other things. There is SO much that happened, and that is just the skeleton of it all. I may add more later, but for now, I have been typing forever and I need to go and be more productive! Again, my apologies if I misspelled or wrote anything completely wrong.
Ciao ciao for now
